July 29, 2011

A fish called Rwanda

FILED IN: Africa, Personal, Travel

Imagine half the population of Australia squeezed into a country a quarter the size of Tasmania. This is what you get with Rwanda, a tiny land locked nation in the east of Africa. We decided to begin our African adventure here on account of the critically endangered mountain gorillas which can be found only here, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) – we were also interested in learning more about Rwanda’s recent history and seeing where it all went down.

Just say you have 200 Facebook friends, now imagine if 30 of them were brutally murdered in the next 3 months on account of their (largely arbitrary) race. This is the situation that took place in Rwanda (minus the Facebook part) in 1994 where roughly 1 million Tutsis were slaughtered by the Hutu majority, at the time the population of Rwanda was circa 7 million so 1 out of every 7 men women and children (and yes, it did include women and children) were killed.

17 years later the country has made a remarkable recovery and is actually very safe to visit (by African standards anyway!) and has a lot to offer tourists. Our first 2 nights were spent in the capital Kigali, a really interesting city built on a series of hills – no matter where you are you’re either on a hill or in a valley so either way you’ve got views. There are also birds of prey constantly circling in the skies which is equal parts creepy and awesome. Here’s a sunrise from the hotel room.

The Genocide Memorial is among the more harrowing tourist sites you’ll find globally. A short walk from downtown is a mass burial site containing 250,000 bodies with a memorial detailing what happened before during and after Rwanda’s darkest hour as well as some information on other genocides that have taken place around the world.

But it’s not all doom and gloom, with plenty of help from the west (who dropped the ball pretty badly in 94) Rwanda has bounced back strong and Kigali in particular appears to be enjoying some prosperity if the weddings and clay tennis courts at our hotel are anything to go by!

I’ll round things out with some photos from Musanze up north, we’d originally planned to see the gorillas up here but ended up only being able to secure permits for Uganda. I won’t write anymore now as typing on the ipad is doing my head in, not sure when I’ll have a chance to post more but stay tuned…..

PS – I did have the fish for dinner the other night so the blog title is LEGIT.

PPS – sorry about the horrendous pixelation of the images above, some technical issues from posting with an iPad that I don’t have time to resolve!

Location:Rwanda

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